Want to tame frizz, define your curls and get smoother, shiner and tangle-free hair? You’ve come to the right place!
The curly girl method originally came from a book called Curly Girl: The Handbook by Lorraine Massey, and it basically replaces habits that damage hair with habits that repair and enhance hair. It helps anyone with all kinds of curly hair, from slight waves to tight coils, live their knot-free curly hair dreams.
I’ve been using the curly girl method for about four years now and I’ve honestly never looked back - it really has helped take my hair from a damaged mess to the wondrous mane it is today. Frizz is significantly reduced, my curls are defined and mainly knot-free, and I less hair falls out on wash day.
The curly girl method is a set of do’s and don’ts and ingredients to pick and avoid to give you hair the best possible chance of falling into its natural curl pattern. A lot of people start with wavy hair and realise their hair is actually really curly - that’s how effective it is, and how unfriendly generic products are towards curly hair.
Feast you eyes!
The Curly Girl Method
At first glance, this is a hectic list of rules, but don’t be deterred - it’s really a lifestyle change, but it’s worth it. Once you see results you won’t want to go back.
The thing to remember is that it’s a guideline and not everything will work for everyone, so see what you like and make modifications. For example, washing hair with conditioner (not shampoo) is recommended, buuuut my hair hates being washed with conditioner. I use shampoo without sulfates (find out what those are below). The method also says not to use a brush ever, but I just cannot get the knots out without one, soooo I use a gentle brush.
Have a gander below and see what works for you.
Curly Girl Don’ts
Shampoo: The traditional curly girl method states not to use shampoo. It recommends washing with conditioner, known as ‘co-washing’. This is because sulfates dry out and make it brittle. Conditioner alone does leave hair nice and clean, believe it or not. For my hair, I choose sulfate-free shampoos. It just means I still get a nice foam and my roots aren’t weighed down by all the moisture conditioner provides - my hair is too fine for that.
Heat tools: Heat is pretty bad for hair. It damages the cuticle and makes it brittle, damaging your curl pattern (click here to find your curl pattern). A lot of people have destroyed their curl patterns with straightening irons and hair dryers - to get it back, they either have to cut it off or wait for it to grow out. Best not use them at all. If you have to use heat because you live in a freezing place, dry it slowly with the heat level down low.
About eight months in to my curly girl journey
Combs and brushes: The idea behind this one is that your fingers are more intuitive. You can rip right through a knot with a brush, but this will break the hair and cause frizz. You’re pretty unlikely to rip through a knot with your bare hands, so the method states to detangle slowly with fingers when the hair is covered in conditioner. I can’t detangle mine properly with my fingers, so I use a gentle tangle-teaser and it’s great.
Scents: Fragrances in beauty products are a massive cause of dandruff and allergic reactions. They’re strong and abrasive and you wouldn’t think it, but they can damage your hair quite substantially because they’re so strong. If you like scents, choose gentle and natural ones. I have used eucalyptus and nothing terrible has happened.
Silicones: Silicones are a major ingredient in a lot of non-curly girl friendly conditioners. They’re a little like plastic - they’ll coat each strand in a layer of plastic that moisture cannot penetrate. The are insoluble to everything except sulfates. Over time, silicones build up on each strand. They dry it out because moisture can’t get in, and weigh it down. In time, this will stretch curls until they disappear. I never use silicones.
Alcohols: Again, these are in most products but they’re very drying, and strip the hair of moisture. You wouldn’t put alcohol all over your face - same thing goes for your scalp and hair. I avoid as many alcohols as I can.
Terrycloth towels: Sounds like a weird one, but using a regular towel to dry your hair will make it frizz up so hard you won’t know what’s going on. They’ll disrupt your natural curl pattern fiercely. Instead, opt for a cotton T-shirt or microfiber towel. I use a small gym towel.
Dyes: You hair can only live its best life when it is in its natural form. This means no dyes. Having said that, a lot of people use more natural dyes with no problems. I have used Lush henna and Rainbow henna with no problems because they’re a stain, not a dye.
Want to know if your products are CG-friendly? Find the ingredients online and paste them into Curlsbot (link below!) and you’ll find out instantly.
Curly Girl Do’s
Use a co-wash: As mentioned above, I don’t use a co-wash because they’re too thick for my hair - I can’t even put regular conditioner in up above my ears because it all just goes lifeless and flat, so I stick to curly girl-approved (CG) shampoos. If you’re hair is thick or super dooper curly, a co-wash might be right for you. It has cleansing elements and is a little thinner than a regular conditioner to leave your hair clean and nourished.
Only cleanse your scalp: There’s really no need to douse the length of your hair in shampoo. Believe it or not, if you focus on your scalp alone, the shampoo will coat the length as it rinses out under the shower and cleanse it that way. Putting shampoo directly on the ends - the most sensitive part of the cuticle - will likely result in dryness.
Deep condition: This one is really important to ensure your hair is getting the right amount of proteins and moisture. Proteins (products with avocado, wheat and soy, for example) will strengthen the cuticle and enhance the curl pattern, while natural moisturisers (aloe vera, flax seed, coconut) ensure it’s soft and shiny. I’m in between deep conditioners at the moment, but I like the Shea Moisture Jamaican Black Castor Oil deep conditioner.
Scrunch in products: I always scrunch my deep conditioner and styling products in to my hair to ensure it really sinks in, and it actually works. I basically tip my head upside down, put conditioner in, make sure it’s all detangled and squish the hair up, encouraging the curl pattern. When the conditioner is rinsed out, I do the same thing with my styling products ( Not Your Mother’s Kinky Moves Curl Defining Hair Cream) and squish it up between each fist to encourage the curl pattern. Then I use a microfibre towel to squish it up again, and wrap my head in it for about 15 to 30 mins.
Let you hair air dry: I know this may be hard for people in cold places, or for people who need to dry their hair early for work - it’s more of a guideline, but reducing heat where you can does make a difference.
What now?
Now that you know the curly girl method, what happens? Well, I’m building a list of posts to help you get to the next stage, but in the meantime take a look at ways to embrace your natural hair and figure out your curly hair type to determine what products will work in your hair.
Those are the basic rules, but I said it before and I’l say it again - do what works for you. If something doesn’t work, scrap it and test something else out. I find YouTube is a pretty good resource - specifically Penny Tovar because she’s just so informative and hilarious and she’s taught me a lot about how to use products properly. Ayesha Malik also has the greatest hair I’ve ever seen, probably because she takes her hair super seriously and spends hours on it - I don’t really see myself taking my hair as seriously as she does, but I’d be interested to try it and see the results - but I guess the pay-off is spectacular hair.
